ROUTEBURN TRACK – A FATHER AND SON JOURNEY

The first time I ever heard of the Routeburn Track was not from a friend, not from a book, and not from a documentary, but from an Air New Zealand safety video many years ago. It looked beautiful, of course, but I never imagined I would one day attempt it. In Nepal, multi‑day walking was not a recreational luxury; people walked because they had no other choice. Growing up with that, I could never imagine voluntarily walking for days with a heavy backpack, giving up warmth and comfort, and calling it a “holiday.”

I also doubted whether my body, now in my late fifties, could tolerate three consecutive days of hard walking. For decades, the idea stayed far from my mind. But slowly, things changed. Small fitness goals, short walks, and eventually longer ones began to rebuild my confidence.

A turning point came during our annual boys’ trip to Twizel. I completed a 14 km track alongside much fitter and younger boys in roughly three hours. That evening, the conversation turned to New Zealand’s Great Walks. I listened quietly, knowing DOC hut bookings disappear within minutes for the entire season. The younger boys had many years to try. I did not. My options were shrinking, but not my desire. Camping in tents was not feasible for me, so the only realistic option was a guided walk.

Guided walks are expensive, but I am blessed to be in a stage of life where I don’t need to save every dollar for the future. The only thing I needed was a Nepali‑speaking companion. I thought of many friends, but I knew most would not want to spend $2000+ on a hiking trip. So, I asked my son, Rishav. He said yes almost instantly. That “yes” filled me with more excitement than I expected.

We found a 3‑day Ultimate Hikes Routeburn guided walk starting daily from 1 November. Our only workable dates were 20–24 November. We booked the tour, return flights, and two nights of accommodation in Queenstown on either side of the hike. And from there, the story began.

To start the preparation, we needed to buy proper hiking socks, clothes, shoes and walking sticks, and a hiking bag for our gears. We set out to buy good‑value gear from Mountain Warehouse and then began training. We aimed for about one walk per week, fitting around Rishav’s schedule. Shalu often joined us, and we eventually completed most of the big walks around Christchurch, including the Bridle Path, Mt Vernon Farm Walk, Rapaki, Bottle Lake Forest, the Crater Rim, and even the Kennedys Bush Track.

About one month before the walk, my heel began hurting. I was limping at times, and it felt like a bad case of Achilles tendonitis. We decided it was best that I rest and let it recover, so I endured a torturous week of no badminton and no walking. Slowly, it improved, and I tested it carefully. In the days before we left for Queenstown, I felt confident again as the heel had almost fully recovered.

DAY 0 – ARRIVAL IN QUEENSTOWN

We flew into Queenstown and checked into the Nomads Hotel by the waterfront. The town’s energy was instantly exciting. After leaving our bags in storage, we wandered the lakefront for a coffee and decided to walk Queenstown Hill. With a few hours before the Ultimate Hikes orientation, and knowing a warm‑up walk was a good idea, it seemed perfect. I quickly changed into proper walking shoes, and off we went.

The track felt similar in steepness to the Bridle Path but nearly twice as long. Including the walk to the trailhead, we covered almost 15 km. My legs felt it, but my confidence grew. Halfway up, we unexpectedly ran into Will, one of Rishav’s doctor colleagues, and had a brief chat before continuing.

Back in town, we attended the Ultimate Hikes orientation and were surprised by how much free gear (hiking bags, raincoats, and more) was available. We picked up two bags and two jackets and re‑evaluated our packing plan, having not expected any of this equipment.

At the hotel, we sorted through our options. We settled on carrying one 40L bag each, with Rishav taking the heavier items to lighten my load. I chose my own raincoat over the Ultimate Hikes one, while Rishav used theirs. We returned the spare items and visited the Tahuna Pod Hostel, where we would stay after the walk. They kindly agreed to store our luggage for three days at no extra cost.

Excitement and nerves were now very real. We wandered the waterfront, had dinner at a Thai restaurant, and went to bed early. With a 5:30 a.m. start the next day, we did our best to settle in for a good night’s rest before the adventure ahead.

DAY 1 – MEETING THE GROUP, THE BUS RIDE & BEGINNING THE TRACK

We got up at 5:30 a.m., got ready, and grabbed takeaway coffees that Rishav bought before boarding the bus to Te Anau, where we stopped for morning tea. There were about 25 people on board, and we later picked up another 10 who had just finished the Milford Track; a four‑day walk nearly twice as long as the Routeburn. The idea of doing both back‑to‑back appeared astonishing to me.

On the bus, we began meeting the rest of our walking group. One by one, the characters appeared. Tom, a technology consultant, sat opposite Rishav, friendly and calm. Behind us were Hamish and Sarah, also relaxed and easy‑going. Next to them were Mingo and Susan; Mingo was energetic and had done the Routeburn before in the opposite direction, as well as several other Great Walks. The five of them were travelling together. Tom’s wife was meant to join but couldn’t after a recent surgery.

During the morning tea break, we met John, a man in his 50s or 60s involved in hospital development planning in Auckland. He loved bird photography and had done this exact guided walk five years earlier. We then had a group introduction session, during which my poorly timed toilet break became a small comedic moment. Rishav introduced us in my absence, and by the time I returned, we were known as the Nepali father‑and‑son duo.

We boarded the bus again for the 40‑minute ride from Te Anau to the Divide, where the Routeburn Track begins. As we sat down, an older woman beside Rishav said, “Tapai lai kasto cha?”—which surprised me. Her name was Deborah, a British woman in her 60s walking with her husband, David, and her older sister, Kathryn. They had just finished the Milford Track and were now starting the Routeburn. Deborah had trekked in Nepal in the 1970s, including Annapurna Base Camp, and Kathryn had also spent time trekking there. We also met Brian, a barrister from the UK, and Hannah, a 24‑year‑old American studying landscape photography.

At the Divide, the rain was pouring. Keeping dry became the priority as we layered up for the start of the walk. In the chaos, we ended up near the back and forgot to take the mandatory starting photo. Gradually, we passed most of the group and reached Lake Howden for lunch. I later learned that the lake connects the three‑day Greenstone Track to the Routeburn and that some people combine the two.

Lunch was provided by Ferg Bakery. There, Rishav ran into Evan, 25, who was walking with his mother, April. Evan knew someone Rishav worked with at the hospital and had lived at Arana College (at Otago University) a year before Rishav did. As they caught up, I realised my rain jacket was failing and I was soaked through to my base layer. Meanwhile, Rishav and almost everyone wearing the Ultimate Hikes jackets were dry. Regretting returning their jacket the previous day, I changed into dry clothes and added more layers.

After lunch, we moved toward the front of the group and reached Earland Falls. The rain was so heavy that the track was unsafe, so we took the bypass route. After the detour, we ended up right at the front. Georgia, the lead guide, told Rishav that the three of us (including Graham from Auckland) should continue while she helped the others. She later caught up and chatted with us; she was in her late 20s and had many mutual friends with Rishav. This was her sixth Routeburn trip since starting with Ultimate Hikes earlier in the year.

We reached Mackenzie Lodge around 4 p.m., finally escaping the miserable weather. It was a heavenly feeling being welcomed at the Lodge entrance where a well-dressed staff was standing with a tray full of glasses of champaign and juice with some light bites. I was expecting a modest facility for our accommodation but was taken by surprise finding it to be very elegant and luxurious despite remoteness of the place.

Rishav and I went to our shared room; our two roommates hadn’t arrived yet. As we changed, Rishav poured us small glasses of whisky from a bottle we’d smuggled along for a quiet celebration.

The next person to arrive in the room after us was Ben, a man in his 30s from Brisbane working in environmental management. He had sprained his ankle weeks earlier and was taking the walk slowly. I was amazed he was doing the Milford and Routeburn back‑to‑back. Later, our final roommate arrived: Brian, the barrister from the bus, exhausted and cautious after a fall on the Milford.

We put our wet clothes in the heated drying room (despite warnings about leaving shoes inside, everyone eventually ignored the advice) and headed to the lounge to socialise before dinner. The lodge served a three‑course meal with a beautifully cooked chicken breast as the main. We sat with Hannah, Deborah, Kathryn, and Ben. Deborah gave up her seat early so her husband could join. After dinner, the guides briefed us about the next day, including the highlight: Harris Saddle. It had only reopened two days earlier after DOC closed it due to weather. Ultimate Hikes had been helicoptering people past the closed section; a tiny part of me was disappointed we wouldn’t get the helicopter experience.

The weather forecast for the next day looked stunning, and the guides were excited for us. After a few drinks and conversations, we headed to bed around 9 p.m. The lodge ran on a generator that shut off at 10 and restarted at 7:30. We settled in for a good night’s rest before another 11 km of walking the next day.

DAY 2 – THE WALK TO FALLS LODGE, GETTING LOST & CARD GAMES

Breakfast this morning included a lovely chat with Carl and his partner, both chartered accountants visiting from Australia. Over a cooked English breakfast, cereal, and fresh fruit, we exchanged stories before heading off to prepare for the day. Rishav made our lunch while I packed my bags, and soon our group gathered outside the lodge to finally admire the view we had missed the previous day due to awful weather. On the deck we took a group photo, then set off for Day 2 of the Routeburn Track.

We started the day excited to finally be dry, though that didn’t last long. Barely 400 metres in, we met an unavoidable river crossing. The water rose to our knees, soaking our clothes and shoes almost immediately. Later we heard over the guides’ radio that Brian had actually fallen into the river and was wet up to his chest, forcing him to return to change.

As the track opened into stunning scenery, Rishav and I found ourselves near the front, stopping frequently for photos. A fellow group member, Gemma, a friendly woman from Brisbane travelling solo who had recently done the Milford, offered to take a picture of us. After that moment we continued walking together, only to realise we had wandered off track. After climbing upwards and searching for signs of the trail, we spent about 30 minutes calling out and retracing our steps before finding our way back. I felt embarrassed and anxious arriving late to the morning tea spot, where our guides Georgia and Rosie were surprised to see us behind them. “You were ten minutes ahead—how did you fall behind?” they laughed. We explained our detour, and the whole group had a good laugh before continuing.

The next section took a few hours, leading us to Harris Shelter for lunch. We walked mostly with Rosie, one of the guides who is also a registered nurse and works in mountain medicine on the ski fields during winter. She chatted with Rishav about doctors they both knew in Christchurch, making the climb feel quicker. At Harris Shelter, we enjoyed lunch and even managed a short nap in the sun. I had hoped to do the Conical Hill sidewalk, but it was closed due to recent weather. Instead, the guides planned a different side trip to Paddy’s Point.

Soon after leaving Harris Shelter, the scenery intensified with every step—truly postcard-worthy. I must have taken 30 to 40 photos in the span of minutes. Eventually we reached a section of track blocked by snow, where a DOC worker was shovelling a path. Rosie joined in to help clear the way. This turned out to be the section that had caused DOC to close the Routeburn Track until only a few days earlier. Hikers before us had been helicoptered from Harris Shelter to just beyond the snowy area, missing the most spectacular part of the track. In hindsight, walking it ourselves was a blessing.

At the junction to Paddy’s Point, we were given the option to head straight to Falls Lodge or do the sidewalk. Spirits were high, so Rishav and I followed guide Suede up the steep, rocky climb. After 20 minutes we reached the lookout, an incredible vantage point overlooking vast meadows, mountains, and lakes. It was a moment of pure awe. After a long photo session, we realised we were now among the last few in the group and made our way down, arriving at Routeburn Falls Lodge in good spirits.

Once again, we washed our clothes, set them in the drying room, showered, and enjoyed a quiet moment with the last of our whisky. While washing clothes, I noticed one of the three Korean women in our group wearing a Japan top. She turned out to be fluent in Japanese, and we chatted briefly. Her name was Jimin, a cheerful woman in her 60s completing two of New Zealand’s Great Walks.

Later in the lounge, Rishav ordered beers from Mitch, the assistant lodge manager. When Rishav jokingly asked for the Ashes score, Mitch returned five minutes later with a full update: wickets, runs, everything. I was genuinely impressed by the hospitality of the Ultimate Hikes staff.

After our briefing for Day 3—which sounded comfortably easy—we sat for dinner with Kathryn, Hannah, and Rosie. Rishav and I swapped dishes so we could try both: his salmon was excellent, but my lamb shank was even better. Hannah introduced us to her unusual “cocktail,” the Red Velvet (Coke Zero mixed with red wine) which surprisingly tasted good.

We ended the night with card games. Ben, clearly a card enthusiast, had brought a waterproof deck and taught us several games. We played Fraud with modified rules, then Skull, where I somehow won almost every round, much to everyone’s amusement. We finished with Wizard, a trick-taking game with evolving trumps and hand sizes. After a fun evening of games and laughter, we headed to bed, ready for our final day on the Routeburn Track.

DAY 3 – THE END OF THE ROUTEBURN & QUEENSTOWN NIGHT LIFE 

We woke to another sunny morning on the last day of the Routeburn Track. As everyone got ready for breakfast, Rishav packed our lunch. I helped someone operate the coffee machine before heading to the cereal bar and cooked breakfast selection. Rishav mentioned there wouldn’t be much for morning tea, so we agreed to have a big breakfast and skip straight to lunch later.

As I carried my food over, I noticed Rishav deep in conversation with an older gentleman in his 60s. His name was Peter, a soon‑to‑be‑retired GP from Auckland. I arrived just in time to hear them discussing the quirks of medical life, and before long Peter was offering Rishav a potential job if he ever decided on general practice. We eventually sat down next to Tom from our day-one bus ride, along with Jo and Murray from Auckland. We all bonded over how brutal the first day had been, thanks to the weather, and how lucky we felt to be finishing the walk under clear blue skies. Like us, Jo and Murray were doing their first Great Walk and were already planning the Milford for next season. I told them Rishav and I intended to do the same—who knows, we might see them again on the track next year.

We were scheduled to depart at 9 a.m., but the DOC had planned a helicopter drop of 1080 pesticide to protect native birdlife. We waited until they gave the all‑clear and finally set off 30 minutes later. The day began with a steep, rocky descent that soon flattened into a gentle bush trail. Partway down we passed a group canyoning; i.e. sliding down a huge rock like a natural waterslide. Eventually we reached the junction for Routeburn Flats, where we would normally stop for morning tea, but due to the delay Rosie decided we’d continue straight to our lunch spot. After a quick water break and photo, we carried on.

Lunch was beside a beautiful lake. Still full from breakfast, Rishav and I settled for a couple of biscuits we’d saved earlier. A kea swooped by, and John enthusiastically photographed it from every possible angle. Rishav spent most of the day walking with Ben, the two of them chatting easily as the track opened into sweeping alpine valleys.

Soon enough, we reached the end. The final kilometres felt emotional and occasionally nostalgic. My legs were tired, but my spirits felt light. As we walked the last stretch, I kept on thinking about how and why some people do the Milford and Routeburn back‑to‑back. And for the first time I could come up with a convincing reason, it must be because of the serene beauty of these tracks, challenging but enjoyable and satisfying experiences, and the opportunity provided by the organised group tour to create unforgettable memories full of new friendship and camaraderie between the group members. By the time we reached Routeburn Shelter, the bittersweet ending had fully settled in.

We celebrated with a pint at the Glenorchy pub, and that beer tasted better than any I’d had in months. We reminisced about the past three days, and Ben and Rishav exchanged contact details. We told everyone we’d be bar‑hopping in Queenstown if anyone wanted to join us later.

After the hour‑long bus ride back, during which nearly everyone (including Rishav 😊) fell asleep, we arrived in Queenstown and said our final goodbyes. Since all our gear had been returned at the Routeburn Shelter, we headed straight to our new accommodation at the Tahuna Pods Hostel. After checking in, we grabbed our luggage and went to our room exploring the shared facilities on the way. After a quick shower, we called Shalu and talked to Shabdika before her flight to Nepal. Then we exchanged photos, posted to social media, and had our packed sandwiches as a late lunch before heading out for a celebratory evening.

We wandered along the lakefront, hopping between bars and enjoying the lively Queenstown waterfront. After discussing activities for our final day—bungee jumping, jet boating, canyon swinging—we eventually decided to visit Arrowtown for some shorter walks. The walking wouldn’t stop, and honestly, neither of us wanted it to.

When the wind picked up, we returned to grab an extra layer before joining the famous line at Fergburger. It was long, as always, but well worth it. Throughout dinner Rishav stayed in touch with Ben, who met us afterward. He’d just had pizza with Kathryn, Deborah, and David. We stopped by Patagonia for ice cream and unexpectedly ran into several members of our walking group. While Rishav enjoyed dessert, we watched some street performers.

The three of us continued bar‑hopping. Since Rishav was planning to spend some time in Queensland in 2026, he and Ben made loose plans to meet up if that happens. Ben had brought his deck of cards, so we played more Skull and taught him “Kitty,” a Nepali card game he seemed keen to learn. We wanted to teach him more, but most games we know require four players, so we stuck with the simpler ones.

At our final stop, World Bar, Ben introduced us to Cockroach Poker. The whole game centred on bluffing—handing someone a face‑down card and claiming what it was while the other person had to decide whether to believe you. We played for a while, but Rishav beat us both easily, and at that point Ben decided to call it a night. We said our last goodbyes and told him to visit us in Christchurch someday.

Rishav and I finished our final beer and walked back to the hostel, settling in for our last night in Queenstown.

DAY 4 – EXPLORING ARROWTOWN & RETURN TO CHRISTCHURCH

On our last day of the trip, we packed up in the morning and checked out of the hotel. Since we planned to spend the day exploring, we left our luggage at reception and picked up a Bee Card to avoid the steep bus fares we’d paid when we first arrived. With that sorted, we hopped on a bus to Arrowtown.

After a coffee at the famous Wolf Coffee shop, we attempted a bush track—only to realise very quickly that it was far steeper than expected, and I had already packed away my walking gear. After a short but determined uphill effort, we turned back and chose a more modest option instead. The riverside path, Tobins Track, was peaceful and gentle, and we enjoyed a relaxed walk together along its quiet stretches.

When we finished, we grabbed a pie from the Arrowtown Pie Shop, and Rishav treated himself to some ice cream while we waited for the bus back to Queenstown. We initially went to the wrong stop and were told our bus was a different one entirely. Luckily, Rishav had the schedule, and we realised the correct stop was about a kilometre away. We made our way there and caught the bus back without any issues.

It felt nostalgic knowing the trip was drawing to a close, but I was also filled with excitement hoping that this would be the first of many New Zealand Great Walks we do together. When we arrived back in Queenstown, we collected our luggage and returned to the bus stop for the airport shuttle. We breezed through security and headed to the Air NZ lounge for a light bite while we waited for our flight.

In a perfect full-circle moment, we ran into Evan and April in the lounge, starting and ending the trip with the same warm faces. They boarded their flight before us, and soon after, it was our turn.

As we settled into our seats, I found myself reflecting on why the walk had impacted me so deeply. The Routeburn was more than a trek and more than a physical challenge. It was three days of father–son bonding, of meeting incredible people, of pushing limits, and of witnessing some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes. I’m grateful I didn’t wait any longer to do it, and even more grateful I did it with my son.

Exciting times lie ahead. We both know this is only the first of many great walks we’ll share. Since then, Rishav and I have already booked the Milford Track guided tour with Ultimate Hikes for 2026 December.